(Image credit: Getty Images)
With the rise of the giant go-anything tote and the recent popularity of the Birkin camo, we take a look at the evolution of the It bag and consider what our bag choices reveal.
I
If you’re the type of person who likes to be prepared for the worst when you leave the house, you’re in luck. One of the biggest accessory trends right now is oversized handbags. Slouchy, voluminous holdalls and totes are perfect for packing essentials throughout the day, such as makeup bags, cell phone chargers, water bottles, books, umbrellas, and more.
Oversized bags were seen at the Spring/Summer 2024 shows of Proenza Schouler (pictured), Louis Vuitton, Hermès and more (Credit: Getty Images)
Designers aren’t necessarily known for prioritizing practicality, so this feels like a welcome moment where fashion meets function. At the Spring/Summer 2025 catwalk shows, models from Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton and Hermès strutted down the catwalk carrying streamlined and roomy doctor bags, while Proenza Schouler carried giant tote bags. I walked around. Last fall, Yves Saint Laurent launched its latest arm candy, the Roomy Y – a bag that might actually fit in your kitchen sink. Now used by celebritiesAngelia Jolie and Bella Hadid.
Over the past few years, large bags have emerged as a trend. In fact, their resurgence was in Succession, a TV drama about the lives of the ultra-rich who don’t need to carry anything, with Matthew Macfadyen’s character Tom Wambsgans mocking women’s “ridiculously large” handbags. It can be traced back to when it became famous. whatever is around us. “What’s in there?” asked Tom. “Subway flats? Her lunchbox? That’s huge. You can take it camping or slide it across the floor after working at the bank.” Succession Billionaire may not have approved of voluminous carryalls, but the fashion industry begged the opposite.
The Chanel 2.55 was the first IT bag, created by Coco Chanel in 1955, and its shoulder chain was a revolutionary innovation (Credit: Getty Images)
While it might be nice to think that the world of luxury fashion is becoming more aware of the average woman’s needs, perhaps it’s all part of the cyclical nature of the industry and Micro bags are mainstream Just a few years ago (after all, one of this season’s other big trends was A bag inspired by the shape of a sausage dog). As soon as you pack your things into your bag, your new style will appear right in front of you. Although modern designs may offer more practical solutions for women, in reality, a handbag’s appeal is rarely determined by simple practicality. Bags, especially designer bags, are not just for carrying things around. It can be a status symbol, an item of self-expression or personal identity, or even an object of aspiration.
The era of it bags
The term “it bag” became famous in the 1990s, but the concept dates back several decades. In 1955, Coco Chanel created a quilted leather bag with a long chain. Designed to be worn over the shoulder, the 2.55 was revolutionary at the time, offering women more freedom than clutch bags or top-handle totes. Seventy years later, this bag is still one of the most popular designer bags.
More like this:
• Why influencers are facing backlash
• Native American supermodels making a difference.
• How ultra-traditional tweed found a new fan base
In the 1950s, Hermès also renamed its bags after Grace Kelly (the actress famously held the bag over her stomach to hide her pregnancy), and in 1961, Gucci introduced the now iconic handbag. I named it “Jackie”. The 1990s and 2000s saw more It bags emerge, including Dior’s Saddlebag, Chloe’s Paddington, and Prada Galleria.
In 2018, the microbag trend moved from the catwalk to the high street (Credit: Getty Images)
But the most coveted of them all came in the 1980s, when Hermès released a bag inspired and named after actress and singer Jane Birkin. The Birkin has become the ultimate symbol of exclusivity. Because even if you had the money to buy a Birkin (we’re talking a five-figure price tag), you’d have to join a waiting list to buy one. In an unforgettable episode of Sex and the City, Samantha will do everything possible to secure Birkin (The show was instrumental in pushing the It bag into popular culture, and the Fendi Baguette was also heavily featured.) “Baguette,” Carrie Bradshaw famously exclaimed. when the robber demanded that she hand over her bag. )
Jane Birkin once told Vogue: “I always have things hanging in my bag because I don’t want to look like everyone else.” And in the early summer of 2023, TikTok was flooded with tutorials on how to do it. “Barkize” your bag By adding ornaments, stickers, ribbons and strings of beads. And later that year, overflowing bag Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2024 model walked down the catwalk carrying an overstuffed bag, recalling the “tired British woman” aesthetic embodied by the chaotic movie character Bridget Jones.
The Birkin is an extreme example, but it’s the price and limited availability exclusivity that makes many IT bags so desirable and aspirational. Those who can’t afford a full designer wardrobe may be able to save money and buy an expensive bag. Wear it every day and project yourself as a Chloé girl, a Chanel woman, a Loewe enthusiast, or choose the Mulberry Alexa (inspired by British model Alexa Chung), the name of the bag. A little magic. lady dior (Princess Diana), to rub it against them.
Miu Miu models carried overstuffed bags on the Spring/Summer 2024 catwalk (Credit: Getty Images)
So, are the days of the It bag over? Instead, the essential bag has simply moved from high-end fashion to something more accessible and practical. Uniqlo’s curved crossbody bag and Lululemon’s Everywhere Belt bag have become common sights on city streets, Baggu’s nylon shopper bag has become a sensation on TikTok, and Cos’ quilted bag is a fashion favorite .
Even celebrities are starting to carry bags that don’t attract much attention – Singaporean brand Orpen’s modest mid-priced shoulder bag Also used by Taylor Swift, Hailey Bieber, and Kylie Jenner.
meanwhile, Ducks have largely lost their stigma.This is especially true among Generation Z. Getting the look for less is just as much of a win as getting the real thing. look at recent “Wirkin” is Walmart’s version of Birkinwhich at one point may have been as popular as the original. For those who want to invest in a classic IT bag; Favorite options are often more attractive.
In an attempt to revive interest, some designers are trying to eliminate old classics. Last year, Balenciaga relaunched Kate Moss’s favorite motorcycle bag from the early 2000s. Currently named Le City, Moss also returned to help with sales.. Priced at $2,900 (£2,377), it’s a relative bargain in today’s world of luxury handbags.
Designer bags may still have life in them. Charli XCX is the face JW Anderson corner bag, And recently Performing on SNL with Gucci’s Jackie bag draped over her shoulder. If there’s anyone who can represent something in the zeitgeist, it’s her.
Longchamp’s practical Le Pliage is popular among Gen Z because it’s lightweight, spacious, and foldable (Credit: Getty Images)
Perhaps a sign that affordability and practicality (combined with a classic design and some brand recognition) are what people are looking for in a bag right now is the lightweight folding bag, first launched in 1993. Perhaps the recent revival of Longchamp’s Le Pliage, a formal tote. I’m talking about armwear. Gen Z is totally hooked.sales of the $155 (£127) bag are soaring. This is also a comfortable tote bag. So big bags might really be back, at least for now.
But perhaps more interesting than which bag you carry is what’s inside it. That’s why videos of people spilling what’s in their bags are so popular, whether they’re social media influencers or not. Top stars of Vogue (Florence Pugh keeps a bottle of hot sauce inside her). In any case, let’s hope we still have a big bag and everything we can fit in it.
—
If you liked this story, Sign up for the Essential List newsletter – Hand-picked features, videos and can’t-miss news delivered to your inbox twice a week.
For more culture coverage from the BBC, follow us on facebook, × and Instagram.
;