The fur is firmly back

Celebrities, Fashionistas, Z. I’m spending a moment. But when you wear all sorts of fur, from vintage to synthetic, there are a few difficult questions. Will new plant-based faux fur be the future path?

From Tory Burch in New York and Simone Rocha in London to Fendi in Milan and Miu Miu in Paris, fur dominated the fall catwalk from 2025-26. And the celebrities matched the runway Haley Bieber, Kendall, Kylie JennerWith Taylor Swift Rihanna Everything wrapped around the beginning of the year in fake and vintage fur coats.

The last time fur hit the headline was in 2017. Gucci pledged to be furlessinfluences many designer brands and follows it. The move was welcomed by animal rights activists, but it was to the scale of new issues that followed. Much of the actual fur has been replaced by synthetic alternatives derived from fossil fuels. Given the tensions surrounding animal welfare and the environment, why is fur still repetitive now?

It began in early 2024 The aesthetics of a mob wifean exaggerated and fascinating response to the pre-existing, minimalist trends: Stealth’s Wealth. “Reviving modern clothing is a natural part of the fashion cycle. It’s escapism and who doesn’t want it?” says Natasha Radcliffe Thomas, an associate professor of MBA fashion business and entrepreneurship at Ravensborne University in London. “I was in the room [former CEO] Marco Bizzarri announces that Gucci will no longer use animal fur in its collection, and remember that this was an incredible shift for Italian luxury brands where fur was such a common material. But the topic of faux fur is also very difficult. ”

Radclyffe-Thomas adds that since designers decided to ban real fur from their collections, the faux fur market has evolved from the early days of “fun” fur, often with bright colors that don’t try to imitate the real thing, to a new level of quality that most consumers don’t know the difference between real and fake.

Production of fossil fuel-based fabrics continues to rise globally, with polyester being the most common; 57% of all fiber production. Even clothes made from recycled polyester are problematic as the model is not circular. The majority are made using plastic bottles rather than old textiles. In other words, it cannot be recycled again, and at some point it will likely become a landfill.

The way to remove fake fur from the landfill or delay the final destination is to cycle it. Fashion rental companies by Rotation By Rotation have been increasing the number of faux fur and wool coat rentals even before the recent catwalk shows. London label Charlotte Simone – its faux fur coat is worn by Taylor Swift, Dua Lipa, Madonna – This is the third most rental brand for coats and jackets. “High quality, well-made faux fur, especially from designer brands, tends to last longer, meaning they are more likely to be handed over, resold or rented, rather than being discarded.”

Holly Watkins, owner of a vintage boutique one scoop store in north London, says that over the past few years, he has seen a substantial transition from selling real fur to selling fake alternatives, depending on changes in customer preferences and demands. “I only sell real fur if it’s a very special vintage piece that I can’t say no or has a removable collar or trim,” she tells the BBC. “Personally, I have no problem with the old ones [real] Fur – It’s better to extend your life than to send it to a landfill. Polyester has a more problem with me in that it does not biodegradate. ”

However, from conversations with vintage dealers in West London, such as the Porto Bello market, Watkins says that many stores have never stopped selling real fur, both old and new.

“Fashion is furry. Young customers want more.” This was the headline for a recent Wall Street Journal article. The consensus appears to be ZZ leading the revival of vintage fur. Madison Avenue Furs, the largest buyer of second-hand fur in the United States, has reported a significant uplift in sales of second-hand goods, particularly those. “We saw college students coming in to buy fur that we’ve never seen in years,” Larry Kawitt, owner of Madison Avenue Furs, tells the BBC. “Vintage fur against new fur is a concern for many younger buyers and ethically pleased with the vintage.”

Kourit, including minks, foxes and beavers, including Christian Dior, Fendi, Oscar de la Renta, Prada and YSL, says customers are buying vintage fur all over. “When these brands come in, we’ll go pretty quickly.”

While many of the furs were fake on the recent fashion week catwalk, among the headlines at Paris Fashion Week was a mink coat made from real vintage fur. Gabriella HearstA designer label that positions itself as a “luxury with a conscience.”

Animal rights campaigners don’t accept vintage debates. “No matter when the damage is done, vintage fur remains clothing made from the skin of unnecessarily killed animals,” says Emma Hocansson, founder of Collective Fashion Justice. “This is a continuing symbol of human superiority over other animals, and we should not accept that in the 21st century there are countless other options without animal exploitation, wildlife killing, and factory farming.”

Among the new generation alternatives of fossil fuel-made fur and real animal skin are the savior, 100% Plant-based fur It is made from nettle, flax and hemp sourced from Europe and produced in Italy. Developed by Material Science Company Biofluff, Savian was launched by Stella McCartney in the form of a long line coat COP28 It was used and created by Danish fashion brand Ganni in November 2023 and later in 2024 Bag collection For Copenhagen Fashion Week.

“We are working with several fashion brands across the luxury, contemporary and accessible market to develop materials that suit our needs,” Bioflaff co-founder Roni Gamson told the BBC, adding that costs remain a challenge in expanding the adoption of new generations of materials. “So many brands rely on low-cost synthetic materials manufactured at Mass in the Far East, making it impossible to compete purely for pricing.”

Bioflaff is a program for LVMH, part of La Maison Des Startups, which will help accelerate the implementation of new solutions within the brand’s portfolio, including Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Fendi and Céline. Conversely, LVMH can also help fund international fur federations. Pay 300,000 euros ($318,000) for your Furmark membershipGlobal certification and traceability system for authentic fur.

Kawit, who continues to sell both new and vintage fur, believes that it’s up to the customer to make the choice, but Radclyffe-Thomas says that she was challenged when she worked in the United States and met people whose hunting and confinement were part of their traditions.

“For many Indigenous cultures, fur and animal skin are part of the cultural heritage used in ritual and everyday dresses, and I think there’s a debate to respect this,” she says. “These classes brought me back to the reality of the number of animals killed for clothing, and almost solidified my personal view. I have never thought about buying real fur.”

Three Things That Help You Heal the Planet by Ana Santi are published by Welbeck Balance.