The United States is experiencing a growing textile waste crisis due to the rise of fast fashion, an industry trend characterized by cheap, disposable clothing. Millions of tonnes of clothing and home textiles are thrown away every year, filling landfills, emitting greenhouse gases and polluting ecosystems with microplastics and toxic chemicals.
A new report by the Government Accountability Office (GAO); Textile waste: Federal agencies need to collaborate on reduction and recycling effortswarns that addressing this issue requires significant investment in recycling infrastructure and innovation. California is taking the lead in this effort. Japan’s first textile expansion producer responsibility lawwhich will require the fashion industry to support recycling infrastructure from 2026. GAO highlights that the rapid turnover of low-cost, low-quality fashion has caused a 50% increase in textile waste over the past 20 years. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) investigation found that textile waste in municipal solid waste (MSW) increased by approximately 80% between 2000 and 2018.
GAO’s report calls for a national textile strategy that focuses on improving recycling technology, expanding collection systems, and moving to a circular economy. Federal agencies such as the EPA and the Department of Commerce; is starting to take action. However, the scale of this challenge requires industry participation and a rethinking of recycling and clothing manufacturing business models to prioritize sustainability. Without decisive action, the environmental and social costs of textile waste will only worsen.
Environmental issues of textile waste
Textile waste, from clothing to carpets and towels, contributes significantly to environmental degradation. Approximately 17 million tons of textiles are discarded in the United States each year. Only 15% is recycled, and the rest ends up in landfills or incinerators.. This waste slowly decomposes, emitting methane, a greenhouse gas 25 times more potent than carbon dioxide. Release of toxic chemicals such as PFAS It invades the surrounding soil and water systems.
Synthetic fibers, which account for more than 60% of global textile production, exacerbate the problem. During use and disposal, these fibers release microplastics that pollute waterways and marine ecosystems. Research shows that synthetic fibers One of the biggest causes of global microplastic pollution. Another recent study They found that fiber-related microplastics account for the majority of microplastics in landfill leachate, and that they can permeate groundwater and have a negative impact on aquatic ecosystems.
The environmental damage caused by textile waste goes beyond greenhouse gases and water pollution. Landfills are the main destination for textile waste. Available space decreases rapidlyleading to habitat destruction and the creation of new landfills. Furthermore, the production of textile products, especially petroleum-based synthetic fibers, is energy-intensive. It contributes significantly to global carbon emissions.
Framework for change: the role of industry and government
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is leading an effort to develop a national textile recycling strategy within five to 10 years. This strategy is rooted in the transition from a linear economy, where textiles are produced, consumed and disposed of, to a circular economy that emphasizes reuse, repair and recycling. Federal agencies such as the Department of Commerce and the Department of Energy collaborate to:
- Improving textile recycling technology: Research into mechanical and chemical recycling methods aims to create scalable systems for breaking down fibers into reusable fibres. For more information on these initiatives, please visit EPA’s Sustainable Materials Management Program.
- Data collection and infrastructure enhancements: A lack of standardized data on textile waste is hindering progress. By working with state, local, and industry stakeholders, federal agencies aim to create robust collection and recycling networks to document the amount of textile waste reaching landfills. This initiative is Solid waste recycling infrastructure program.
- Promote interagency cooperation: Efforts to formalize collaboration across federal agencies could foster innovation and streamline textile waste reduction programs. EPA outlines these cross-agency goals as follows: national recycling strategy.
Integrating textile recycling with broader systems
Integrating textile recycling with other recycling streams such as plastics and organic materials could accelerate progress across the recycling system. However, waste streams are often treated as a separate issue. TWaste containing synthetic fibers shares important similarities with plastic waste, opening opportunities for advances in polymer recycling technologies applied across these streams.
Organic fibers such as cotton and wool may also be compatible with composting programs if contaminants such as dyes and chemicals are effectively removed. This approach reflects the innovations discussed above. Earth911’s SuperCircle interview. The company’s co-founders explained how their circular system addresses the textile waste challenge by integrating recovery and advanced recycling technologies to increase reuse efficiency. SuperCircle has developed a scalable approach to textile recycling. This provides a blueprint for how textiles can be managed alongside other waste streams such as plastics and metals, ensuring shared collection systems facilitate material recovery across the industry.
Advances in chemical recycling for synthetic fibers, Although still controversialcan play a pivotal role in building closed-loop systems. These methods break down synthetic fibers. We decompose it down to its molecular components and produce high-quality raw materials. However, this technology It is attached Solve challenges such as cost, scalability, and potential environmental tradeoffs.
Organic fibers like cotton offer a unique opportunity to achieve circularity. Stacey Flynn points outco-founder of Evrnu, on the Earth911 podcast. Evrnu’s technology converts textile waste into high-performance fibers for new clothing, demonstrating how natural fibers can be reintroduced into the manufacturing cycle without significant harm to the environment. Flynn emphasized the importance of clean raw materials for fiber-to-fiber recycling, which could also extend to composting efforts where organic fibers can safely biodegrade into soil nutrients. .
Successful integration will depend on the development of cross-sector solutions, such as shared collection points for multiple waste streams and innovations in sorting technology to separate synthetic and organic fibers.rs. The scalability and effectiveness of these systems will depend on industry investment, public participation, and the alignment of advanced recycling technologies with environmental sustainability goals.
Integrating textile recycling into broader systems has the potential to foster a new era of resource recovery and pave the way to a circular economy.
opportunities and challenges first
While this strategy is a promising step forward, there are significant hurdles along the way.
- Technical gap: Chemical recycling of blended fibers is still in its infancy. It may not be possible to process diverse textile waste.Eames.
- Economic viability: Building a recycling system requires access to reliable sources of recyclable materials and cost-effective processes, a challenge that recyclers and manufacturers must work together to address.
- Consumer engagement: Changing public behavior towards recycling textiles rather than throwing them away is essential for long-term success.
The road to Circular Futerus
GAO’s recommendation that the United States launch a national textile strategy emphasizes the importance of collaboration among federal agencies, industry stakeholders, and the public. Integrating textile recycling with other materials management systems can help reduce waste, reduce negative environmental impacts, and even potentially foster innovation in sustainable manufacturing.ring.
For consumers, the strategy is a call to rethink our relationship with textiles, embrace sustainable fashion choices and join recycling efforts. The first step in any circular economy is the choice to put materials back into the system for recycling.
